2nd to 4th July - A difficult slog

The next three days to Porto were to be characterized by unpleasant motoring into the wind and swell, with overnight stops at some friendly marinas and some really excellent seafood meals.

We had decided to leave Cascais the next morning.  Aside from the weather we were still concerned about the orcas.  There was a group in front of us that had already attacked several yachts and another similar group behind.  If we went too fast we would catch up the first group but, if we stopped somewhere too long, the second group might get too close for comfort.  Fortunately, there is a great community on social media looking out for yachts; publicising the location of orca sightings and interactions.  The first group is tagged and so there is a better idea where it is but for some reason the Portuguese authorities (unlike the Spanish) will not allow the location of the tagged group to be made public.  So there is an individual calling himself after a well known pirate who secretly communicates this information to those in need and Bali Hai, being in the middle of two groups, is certainly one of those in need.  We had originally planed to sail from Cascais to Porto in one go but, because the orcas only move at 1 to 1.5 knots, we had to slow down and do it in three legs.  Jack provided us with forecasts of where the first group of orcas was expected to be and we timed ourselves to follow closely behind. 

Example of one of the pirate's forecasts

On the day of departure the wind had died down but it was still fairly strong, particularly around Cabo de Roca, the point you have to go around immediately after leaving Cascais.  Also, the forecast was showing a fairly heavy swell of over two metres which had built up as a result of the previous days’ wind.  

A bit of swell

Our first stop was the port of Nazere, some 74 miles up the coast.  It would be a long journey and so we headed out at 5:30 in the morning.  When we left the marina, we thought that we may have been overly cautious as there was little wind and the sea was calm.  However, as we approached Cabo de Roca the wind picked up to 30+ knots and the swell became large and more confused.  Conditions were extremely rough and unfortunately Emma had drawn the short straw and was helming.  Our speed dropped from 6.5 to three knots and on several occasions large waves came crashing onto the boat and over the sprayhood; Emma soon looked like a drowned rat.  I offered to take over but she insisted on completing her watch.

Emma enjoying her watch

These conditions continued for a few hours and travelling at that speed I was concerned that we would not make it to Nazere before dark and considered turning back.  Fortunately however, although still on the nose, the wind then dropped to 10-12 knots and whilst the swell was still over two metres the waves were no longer breaking and we could roll over them and still make a reasonable speed.

We finally made it to Nazare at 5:30 in the afternoon, it is a very protected marina and the marina staff extremely helpful and friendly and so it was a great relief to finally tie up.  Nazare is a small seaside resort which itself is not particularly remarkable, but it is famous for having highest surfing waves in the world; a feature caused by an underwater canyon that leads to the beach.  In 2017, the world record for the tallest wave ever surfed (25m) was recorded at Nazare.  I did think of taking Bali Hai for a ride down the surf but for some reason the crew mutinied at that point.

A "portion" of seafood rice

The marina staff recommended a local seafood restaurant.  It was a bit of an experience as our waitress did not speak English and most things on the menu were sold by weight or “portions” however, in the end, we had a wonderful meal.

Figueira da Foz (crew members feel at one with the town) 

The next day, the poor conditions persisted and we motored the 33 miles to Figueira da Foz straight into the wind and a 2m swell.  The arrival at the marina was a bit peculiar as there was no-one there to greet us and, when they turned up after a telephone call, they were not particularly friendly and just told is to take any place on the pontoon that we wanted.  But then it was only €29.50 for the night, the cheapest marina to date.

Cacarola 1 restaurant

For dinner, another marina staff recommended the restaurant Cacarola 1, a local family run restaurant established in 1976 with a very traditional feel.  The speciality there is the local sardines which are smaller than the norm and easier to eat.  We had them grilled and they were delicious.

Figueira da Foz sardines

The next day was the final leg of the journey to Porto.  Another long journey and because the Douro Marina, where we planned to stay, could not confirm that they had any space for us it threatened to be even longer.

The good thing was that the swell had died down considerably and we had 10-12 knots of wind which was not directly on the nose and so we were able to motorsail in reasonable comfort.  Then at midday the marina called to say that they had a space for us.

Douro Marina is a new marina, built in 2012.  Yet again the staff were extremely friendly and helpful not only assisting with the mooring but also recommending local shops and restaurants and things to do in Porto the next day.

By the time we reached Porto the crew had gone completely loopy

The three difficult long days had finally taken their toll on the everyone, not only were people tired and grumpy they were also becoming delusional.  At one point Greg asked when we had taken the sails down, despite there being a 20m high piece of white canvas still flapping from the mast and then, on arrival, the marina staff who Emma insisted was waiting for us in a dinghy, turned out to be a lifebuoy.  

The final excellent seafood meal in a restaurant near Douro Marina